Looking to the past to find the future
PARIS The spring 2015 season has been a convoluted web of design house debuts, continuing renovations and rumored last shows. Anderson unveiled his vision for the historic luxury brand often referred to as the Herms of Spain on Friday morning in a charming rock garden just outside the UNESCO high quality designer replica handbags headquarters. A white tent sheltered the guests and boulder like tuffets served as seating. A chiseled stone angel, from a church in Nagasaki, Japan, was mounted on a rugged wall, recalling the detonation of the atomic bomb in 1945. It was a fake designer bags sobering reminder of the horrors that technology can unleash.
Anderson used this dignified setting to share an earnest philosophy: a belief that authenticity, nature and ease form the most rarefied kind of luxury. And when his show opened, his point was clear. He began his presentation with a sand colored dress in luscious suede that was unpretentious and alluring. It was assembled from torn pieces of suede, a kind of haute prehistoric artistry that captivated the eye. It was organic and informal and it looked perfectly at home surrounded by rough hunks of stone that looked luminous in the clean morning light.
And when Anderson stayed true to a natural color palette, his work made sense. It made one think, well, yes, this house has possibilities. Bring on the excessively priced handbags and shoes.
But designing a collection for a marquee brand that is part of the mighty LVMH Moet Hennessey Louis Vuitton empire is daunting. The French conglomerate dominates the global luxury market with its control of labels including Christian Dior and Louis Vuitton. And carefully taking in Anderson’s debut from his own stone throne was the brand’s boss, Bernard Arnault. Be brilliant, Mr. Anderson! No pressure.
Carving out a niche in the competitive luxury market and attracting a share of that tiny but influential one percent of the population for whom $800 shoes are commonplace is a death defying feat. And somewhere between the sand colored pelts, cloud like ivory dresses and a lovely woven suede shopping bag, Anderson lost his way. His leather trousers sat high up on the waist, but far away from it. The look was not practical, nor was it conceptual. It was simply unflattering. His gamesmanship with rough hewn dresses that merged into knit vests was admirable. But he detracted from his vision with torn leather t shirts in baby blue and pink turning his cave dweller purity into a cartoon.
Anderson’s ideal of a less formal kind of luxury feels spot on for the times. And the underlying theme of natural beauty should serve both him and his eventual customer well. But his debut collection was not as sure and as soulful as the philosophy inspiring it.
After two years at Dior, Raf Simons vision of the brand remains a work in progress, a procession through history. Simons is slowly working towards a solution to a problem of his own devising: How to make the artistry of haute couture relevant replica designer handbags in a ready to wear, fast fashion world. His task is sisyphean.
The Friday afternoon show took place in a courtyard at the Louvre. Guests were seated inside a giant mirrored box like a massive space ship parked in the midst of French history. Guests murmured curiously over the arrival of former first lady or the French equivalent Carla Bruni Sarkozy, who settled into a front row seat. The more distant rows were filled with Dior clients, ladies who still enjoy a luncheon suit and who are willing to make an effort both aesthetically and financially for an evening out.
Simons noted that the collection was inspired by the past louis vuitton copy bags uk , from the 18th century onward specifically, court attire of both men and women. That’s a great deal of peplums, corsetry, panniers and leg o’mutton sleeves with which to contend. “The challenge was to bring the attitude of contemporary reality to something very historical; bringing easiness to something that could be perceived as theatrical,” Simons said in his show notes.
His strongest pieces were white cotton dresses something akin to choir robes. He paired quilted white walking shorts with jewel tone, long jackets and coats that were elegantly embroidered and exquisitely rendered.
The most captivating fake louis bag fashion shows begin with a singular idea often a quite simple one. And it builds. The designer adds details and follows tangents and by the mid point, a viewer has an understanding of an articulated message. The collection crescendos to a finale a last, new point or an emphatic repetition. But Simons’s collection did not build. It registered like a lovely Discount Replica Louis Vuitton Bags , but simple melody played on a piano. No bass notes ever gave it a foundation. No other instruments joined in to lift it up and give it breadth and nuance. Its full, symphonic beauty was never realized. It was just sweet pinging on a keyboard.
The designer Julien Dossena has a handful of runway shows under his belt for Paco Rabanne, a house that has churned through so replica louis vuitton bags many designers in the last few years that one has lost count. The house is famous in popular culture for its use of chain mail and more than a aaa replica designer handbags few designers have gotten tripped up trying to make use of the glitzy material that immediately calls to mind go go dancers.
Dossena’s antidote was to focus on a youthful and sporty sensibility, with only a subtle futuristic undertone. His dresses called to mind elongated basketball jerseys with a single strap dangling from the waist and terminating in a silver D ring. His collage dresses had open backs, short skirts and embellishment that resembled metal washers. Chain mail was incorporated into fringed mini dresses but its Las Vegas vibe was tamped down by its sparing use.
Dossena also championed stirrup pants. And these stretchy, athletic ’80s remnants looked good at least on the runway, under the bright Paris spotlights, on tall thin girls.
But if there is anything that fashion week here teaches an observer, it is that what looks fine and even beautiful on the runway, does not look so swell or appropriate when it is transferred to city streets even ones as beautiful as those in Paris. Yes, the runway is essentially a stage where extremes are applauded. But the runway is also a place where women are allowed to be ogled and high quality replica handbags china examined; preening is expected. In the real world, self infatuation is derided. And even an cheap louis vuitton bags from china admiring glance is met with suspicion.
As guest tiptoed through the dusty gravel of the Tuileries Gardens on their way to the Nina Ricci show earlier this week, many self consciously courted the waiting photographers. They walked slowly and smiled, hoping replica louis vuitton handbags to capture some lensman’s eye. Head to toe black leather fringe? Black chiffon backless gowns while the sun sits high in the sky? A full feathered sheath? It’s not the clothes that are unnerving; it’s the unflinching look at me.
The trick of a good designer, is to create garments that shine without a woman needing to twirl and prance. That make her feel special and desirable among other things but to do so without distraction. Nina Ricci’s Peter Copping has built on the boudoir charms of the brand to create a feminine mystique using frayed edges, coquettish lace and colors that aim to seduce. (Copping is reportedly leaving Nina Ricci after this season.) His high quality designer replica handbags wholesale clothes emphasize the waist, show a little leg and have necklines that flatter the poitrine.
To his great credit dolabuy.su , they can go from the runway to the street. To be admired and desired. And happily, no twirling is required.
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